On a recent cross-country trip, we encountered extreme overheating out on the open road. A quick trip to the auto parts store, or a planned visit to the mechanic, were not options. Our family holiday weekend was in jeopardy. What to do?

Like a good boy, I had checked the oil and topped off the radiator the night before. So why, 45 miles later was the Beast chugging and lurching and about to sputter to a stop? I had just enough momentum to pull off the interstate and coast into the rest stop. The needle on the temperature gauge has gone off the scale, and an indicator in the instrument panel said “check gages”. There was no steam and no water leaking, but there was heat – lots of it. Though it was only May, summer was in full swing under the hood – it felt like an oven!

The radiator and the entire cooling system was dry. So where did all the coolant go?

The first step in remediation is to refill the system with liquid. But without proper diagnosis of the problem and correction, the trouble was sure to repeat itself. With family members using a half dozen water bottles to shuttle water from the rest room, it took about an hour, which gave me plenty of time to ponder the situation.

During that time, scalding hot steam greeted me every time I poured another bottle in. I have always heard that you should never add water/coolant to a hot vehicle unless the engine is running, lest the cool meet the hot and crack the engine block. That makes sense to a degree, except, I reasoned, that the temperature change in the mass of a 454 engine resulting from a bottle of water would not occur rapidly enough to damage the engine.

Well, here is how I looked at things…

Scenario

■ Complete and utter loss of coolant in 45 miles under normal driving conditions
■ No steam and no leaking of antifreeze
■ No signs of water coming out the tailpipe
■ No signs of water in the oil
■ No signs of leakage from the weep hole under the water pump
■ Radiator cap seemed tight enough
Possible root causes

■ Thermostat failure – probably most common among all possibilities, and the least expensive and the easiest to fix.
■ Water pump failure – also common, but more difficult and more expensive.
■ Leaking head gasket or cracked head or block. This would account for the coolant to disappear without a trace, by its escaping through a combustion path or into the crankcase. There would also be a high probability of impact to the engine’s performance.
There might be more, but those are the biggies that come to mind.

With the cooling system refilled, it was time to trouble-shoot in a more controlled situation. So, to start the Suburban back up; which brings me to another point. Extreme engine heat can fatigue and damage other components. In my case, the battery was shot.

So, after a jump start from another friendly traveler, using the jumper cables I always keep under the back seat (wish I’d had my tools that day also). With some extra water on board, we decided to push on down the road to the next town with a truck stop, about 45 miles away.

When we got there, she was running hot again. I opened the hood to take a look. You have probably and hopefully heard to be careful when opening the radiator cap on a hot engine. That is good advice. Here is how I do it… First, I squeeze the upper radiator hose to get a feel for the temperature and the amount of pressure. If it is absolutely too hot to touch, or feels firmer than a tennis ball, then forget it.

Satisfied that it was neither too hot nor too pressurized, I slowly and carefully turned the radiator cap to its depressurized catch. That is the point where the pressure seal is released and hot water could escape, but the cap still will not lift off. (I have heard horrible tales of people being badly burned by boiling coolant. Their flesh is so badly damaged that their skin comes off. In extreme cases, death can occur).

Next, I squeezed the upper radiator hose again to make sure there was no pressure left in the system. Then, I removed the radiator cap carefully, successfully and safely.

The water level was low again, but not empty. And the engine was nowhere near as hot. I decided that it was probably the thermostat causing the problem, and that I would try my quick fix. If I was right, it would solve my delimma, and if I was wrong, I would lose only a few minutes of my time.

The Solution:

Borrowing not more than a pair of pliers and a screwdriver, here is how I fixed the problem. With the pliers, I removed the snap ring that held the upper radiator hose to the elbow on the top of the engine that houses the thermostat.

The thermostat is a little round mechanism that acts as a doorway – a gatekeeper rather – to the liquid in the engine’s cooling system. It is designed to be closed when cold, then to open at a predesignated temperature – such as 160 degrees f, or 180, or whatever. There is a spring that keeps it closed by default. But it is made in such a way that when it gets hot enough, certain aspects of it will expand and open the gateway, thereby allowing the liquids to pass through.

If you run your vehicle without a thermostat, like I did once, it might not ever reach a suitable temperature for it to run properly. In my case, it was cold, the engine remained cold and ran poorly, and I froze inside because the heater had no heat since it needs the warmth of the engine to warm the passenger compartment.

But on the other hand, if your thermostat is stuck, then the coolant will not circulate, and the heat builds up in the engine because it cannot be dissipated through the radiator. Since our Suburban had encountered several months of inactivity, I believe that some of the resulting rust that accumulated on the thermostat has something to do with its sticking and failing me.

OK, I have told you a lot about my experience and about engine cooling and related problems to bring you to this point. So, let’s get on with the procedure already!

With the upper radiator hose off of the connector elbow, I had immediate access to the thermostat on a few inches inside below. With a screwdriver used as a spear (the bigger the better) and a hammer or something heavy, simply pound the tip and shaft of the driver through the thermostat. As long as you focus your damage on the thermostat and are careful to avoid hitting the water elbow or the manifold below the thermostat, you should be fine and need only to replace the thermostat and water elbow gasket when you get the time.

After sacrificing my thermostat and putting the hose back on and refilling with water, I was able to see the water circulating in the radiator (easiest to see when the cooling system/radiator is not completely full). I was back on the road with no more colling problems, and still am now, hundreds of miles later.

Unfortunately, the heat zapped the battery, which had to be replaced. And also the heat seems to have exacerbated some problems with the ignition system, such as with the plugs, wires, and distributor, which the dealer says all need to be replaced.

In the end, I hope this little trick can help you if you get into a pinch. But please, always remember that hot fluid from your radiator can be injurious or deadly, and that pouring water into the radiator of a hot engine can result in an unexpected volcanic-type eruption of scalding water.

With that, I wish you all the best!

Michael

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Introduction

Great! You’re going to buy a new car. …well not exactly new since it is previously-owned, but nevertheless it’s still a new car for you. That is exciting, and important, so, you want to do it properly.

One of the greatest concerns most people have when it comes to buying used cars is whether it is a good buy. That is, the goal is to get one that brings you fun and joy, instead of drama and agony from frequent breakdowns and broken parts that turns your positive expectations into an utter nightmare.

Well, here is some good news. Regardless of your experience with buying used cars, this checklist can help you qualitatively evaluate a lot of the important stuff involved with buying a used car. And you will thank yourself for it after you dodge the lemon and land the sweet ride that will do you right.

(You might want to print out the printer friendly version of this article so you can take it with you!)

Items To Be Discussed:

• Pre-Screening
• Checking The History Of The Car
• Exterior
• Underneath The Car
• Under The Hood
• Interior
• Test-drive

To make the most of your time, make a list of the cars you are interested in. Leave a space for your comments. A simple List Of Interest can help you mentally, emotionally, and financially.

Pre-Screening

Call The Seller First!

Your time is precious so if you can eliminate a car from your inventory of car sellers for the make and model you’re searching for, then you’re working more effectively already. With your checklist handy, begin making your inquiries by phone or email.

Pre-Visit Questionnaire:

Why are you selling it?
You never know what the answer might be and maybe you can detect a lie of some sort used to cover something up. There are bad liars out there in the world and if they didn’t prepare and have something to hide, they will likely be mumbling something to pass off as a valid reason for selling the car.

Does the car have any specific features or special options that i should know about?
What is the current condition of the car?
Is it in impeccable mint condition or does it need additional work?

This is good to know beforehand so you don’t have any unexpected surprises when you get there. Always try to find out if the car needs additional body work, upholstery, etc… Time is money – and so is gasoline.
Usually you will get either a good run down of items still needed, or a simple “Yeah, sure the car is in good condition” type of reply. Don’t be afraid to inquire further, your time is just as valuable as the seller’s and if you can spare a round trip it means you save money on gas and you don’t waste any of your time.

Keep asking questions to get the specifics you need. Ask the seller if he doesn’t mind a few additional questions you would like him to answer, so you and the seller don’t have to waste each other’s time. Legitimate sellers should have no problems answering all of your questions about the car they are trying to sell you.

• How is the paint?
• Is there any rust?
• Is there necessary body work?
• How is the condition of the interior? Is there a clear indication of wear and tear or is it in impeccable condition?
• How is the engine?
• Are the brakes in good condition?
• Are the shocks in good condition?
• What kind of problems have you had with this car?
• Has the car ever been in an accident? If so how serious?
• How was it used?

Pizza delivery might mean lots of wear and tear on brakes, engine, tranny, suspension, driver’s seat – everything. Long trips, weekends only, mostly highway on the other hand mean a lot less stress.
It is not unusual to find a car with 150,000 miles driven by a traveling salesman that is in much better shape than one with 60,000 miles that was driven by a teenager.

And finally ask the seller what his/her asking price is and if he/she sees room for negotiation. Yes, some people do mistake the term asking price for a final price and when you try to bring down the price, they say something like “The asking price is what I want for the car so that is the price you need to pay?” – not understanding that an asking price is a starting point for negotiations.
Doing all these preliminary questions without leaving the house and working your way down your list of potential cars of the make and model you’re after, saves you time and gas money (If you travel by car) and if you have a little bit of people skills, you’re able to get a feel if the seller is being upfront with you about things, or if the seller is trying to hide something from you.

Maybe something you find suspicious in his way of answering your questions, or in his tone of voice. It’s hard to say of course for certain if your suspicions are justified, but nevertheless a simple phone call can give you the opportunity to dig further and determining if the car is worth spending your time on.

Checking the history of the car:

Speaking of digging further, you would by now have a list of potential cars you want to explore further, with a service like CarFax.com you can run down the list of cars through their online service and find out if the car truly hasn’t been in an accident or had a ton of previous owners. Call the owner of each car if you have multiple options and run the VIN numbers through the online record check service from CarFax.com

CarFax Record Check™
* Prior salvage, flood, or total loss reported to CARFAX
* Accidents reported to CARFAX
* Number of owners
* Odometer readings
* Service records
* Registration and title information…and more!

This may even filter down your list some more depending on the outcome of your performed searches.
If you discover a seller has lied about or misrepresented anything, then move on to the next car on your list.

Going To Check Them Out

First of all, so you can place yourself in a stronger position later on during negotiations, don’t get excited when you see the car, no matter how awesome it looks! No matter how impeccable the condition of the car is!
Because when you do the seller may be less inclined to lower his price in negotiations later on – knowing you’re so enthusiastic about the car and all and that you will eventually fork up his price.
So keep your enthusiasm and complimentary comments bottled up for now, you can always jump up and down and do your “I’m so happy” routine later on when you’re the new owner of your new ride.

In regards to your own safety, don’t carry any cash on you, take care of this after you have seen the car, and have come to an agreement, you wouldn’t be the first one to be robbed on the place you have agreed to meet by someone or multiple individuals that lured you to a place to show you their “car” for sale. Choosing to conduct your purchase transaction at a bank is your best bet. That way you have the security of video cameras, witnesses, and maybe even a guard or police officer.

If the seller has a problem with that, then perhaps it is a warning sign that you don’t want to do business with him anyway. Of course if the seller is a bona fide used car dealer, then you would likely do the transaction on his car lot during business hours. If for some reason you must meet at the seller’s home or some other private place, bring a couple of friends with you, and be sure to tell your family where you are going beforehand. Leaving an email trail is another way to ensure that the seller is aware that their dealings with you are documented. If the seller refuses to disclose his identity (real name) and phone number, then you should refuse to do business with him.

This is where the pre-visit questionnaire comes in handy as well, because most robbers are totally unprepared for the type of questions above and are abrupt and annoyed by your questions and just want to meet up with you – remember if someone don’t wants to answer some simple questions over the phone it’s not worth your time, or risk for that matter. All this is not to scare you or make you paranoid, but following some basic protocols can make all the difference.
Upon arrival, check that the person selling the car really owns it. Ask to see the vehicle registration papers and make sure the seller’s name and address appears on it. Ask the seller for proof of identity to verify.
You don’t want to buy a good car and then afterwards discovering that the car is stolen.

Exterior

When you’re going to inspect the car do it at broad daylight and never when it’s raining, when it’s about to go dark, or in the evening when you can’t see hardly anything at all.
Broad daylight, that means also no artificial light. If it’s in a garage ask the seller to move it outside for a better view.
Make sure the car isn’t parked against something, prohibiting to give you a full view on all sides of the car.
The car should not been recently driven and it should be parked on a leveled surface so you can clearly see if the car is leveled even and not sagging on a particular side because of faulty shock absorbers.

The Walk Around:

Start with checking the oil first, pull out the dipstick and if you see a brownish slurry, thus not oil of course, close the hood and don’t bolder anymore – strike the car of your list and move on as the engine block is raptured.
Oil looking good?
Now remove the cap of the radiator, because with a raptured engine block you see the same type of slurry in the radiator as well.

Important – Check this when the engine is cool!

• Verify if the engine is cool before removing the radiator cap.
• What is the quality of the water inside the radiator?
• Is it rusty or does it contain a oily substance?
• Be suspicious if you see perfectly clear radiator water, it’s probably refreshed especially for your visit and to remove the dirty water that give indications of potential problems with the car.
• If it looks good, and it shows regular oil and radiator fluid, then continue with checking out the other stuff.
• Are there any leaks from the radiator? Do you see water or rust stains?
• Is the hose free from leaks? – Also check the area where the hose meets the engine block.
• Inspect the car exterior for scratches, dents, paint ripples and rust.
• Windshield cracks?
• Check the doors – do they open and close without any problems?
• Is there anything broken/damaged? Such as the headlights, grill, bumpers.
• Do you see different color shades, which would be in most cases an indication of previous damage.
• Are the rubbers in the car doors in good condition?
• Is everything aligned correctly? For example does the hood have different seam sizes?
• Does the car sag on a particular side, is it leveled? If it’s not leveled most likely the shock absorbers are faulty.
• In case of a top, raise and lower it to find out if it works properly.
• Are all the mirrors present and adjustable?

* Negotiation Tip!

If you find a problem use it to your advantage to lower the price for the car, point out the faults you have discovered and that it requires additional funds to repair it properly.
So in order for you to maintain interest to buy the car the price has to come down, otherwise you’re not interested for the price the seller is asking.
Obviously the repairs shouldn’t require to much serious work, otherwise it’s best to move on and go to the next car on your list.

Shock Absorbers:

Go to each corner of the car and push it up and down until you have a rhythmic motion happening – and then stop abruptly. The movement you had induced should stop immediately. When it does not stop immediately the shocks may need to be replaced. When there is no way to get the car in a up and down motion then the shocks definitely need to be replaced.

Tires:

Check the tread condition on all the tires of the car including the spare. Uneven tire wear may indicate potential problems with the steering, alignment or suspension.
Turn the steering wheel to the far right and left to check the insides of the tires so you can see if there is any damage, this is something you can not see when the tires are aligned in a straight manor.
Is there enough tread on the tires at all? The tread on the tires is important for road grip and is important for your own safety, if there isn’t enough tread on the tires you need to replace them and it will bring you additional costs.
Most states’ laws, indicate tires are legally worn out when they have worn down to 2/32″ of remaining tread depth.

Interior Door Panels:

Check the doors, open and close them, do they close correctly without slamming the door?
Check for uneven seams as this indicates parts have been replaced due to previous damage caused by an accident.
Roll the windows up and down, do they work? Do they stay open halfway?

Underneath the Car:

Exhaust:

• Check the bottom of the car and look at the exhaust system, do you see rusty and brittle areas, faulty brackets? Use of putty?
If so this depending what you exactly see may result in additional needed repairs.

• Check for leaks in the exhaust pipe, use a rag to put on your hand and place your hand on the end of the exhaust with the engine running. Pressure should be building up and blow your hand away from the exhaust – if you have no problems
keeping your hands in place with not to much trouble then somewhere in the exhaust system there is a leak.
This could be very dangerous as escaping carbon monoxide gasses can result in carbon monoxide poisoning.

• What kind of continues color smoke comes out of the exhaust? (Not puffs of smoke)

- If it is blue, it means the engine is worn and consumes tot much oil. – Shake owners hand and say “Have a good one Sir/M’am, but I’m not interested” – this car would be hopeless and exactly the type of car you don’t want to have anything to do with.

- If it is black it would indicate excessive fuel consumption. – Valves could be bad or not adjusted right; slipped timing belt; carburetor not adjusted correctly.
- If it is constantly white then engine coolant or anti-freeze is being processed in the combustion chambers of the engine. – Could be a bad head gasket or warped or cracked engine block.

On a cold day the smoke you see coming out of the exhaust may also display as white smoke, but this is a normal reaction as this is part of the condensation process. Once the engine is warmer it will clear up.
Check above the mound of the exhaust, if there is a black tarnish on the bumper, undercarriage and possibly taillights – this would also indicate a above normal oil consumption. And this would mean the car’s engine is unhealthy.

Rust:

• Do you see any clear indication of rust?
• Welding reparations? Welding operations are an indication of serious repairs or even putting together two half’s of two separate cars depending on the welding seams.
• Older cars always have some sort of rust, but what is important is the severity of the rust and how far it is eating away the material?

Light rust can be easily fixed, but serious rust is a problem, a problem you don’t want to be part of.

• Freshly applied Tectyl (A heavy black substance, leaves a strong smell as well.) is a sign of covering things up at last notice and that is not a good sign at all.

• Check the wheel wells for rust, this is one of the most common places where rust starts to form so be sure to check this out.

Under The Hood:

• Is the engine already warm? Possible a bad starter that’s been prepared for you.
• If the engine is very dirty it’s pretty much a dead give away on vehicle negligence, if it’s very clean then it’s recently cleaned and maybe done to hide any potential defects.
• Notice any damage to the hoses, messed up wiring or burned wiring?
• Leaks around the carburettor and fuel lines?
• Do you see any leakage on the ground where the car is parked?
• If you see puddles of oil or a clear indication of leakage you know you’re probably buying yourself a car with lots of repair costs and not the type of car you hoped to get.

Is your answer Yes to the above questions?

Remember this guy?

Right, you don’t want to be this guy, so it’s best to move on to another car you have on your list.

Is your answer No? – Then we can move on:

With the engine running remove the oil filler cap, if you see large amount of escaping gas, especially blue it means the engine is badly worn.
Have the engine running idle for a few minutes and have a friend to help you out by watching what type of smoke comes from the exhaust when accelerating. A single puff of blue smoke would indicate a worn engine, but a continues flow of blue smoke would indicate a really badly worn engine. (Not applicable to Diesel cars).

• Brake fluid, power steering and gearbox fluid filled to the proper levels?
• Once again as with checking under the dashboard, check the wiring, do you see any burned wires or botched repairs?
• How are the engine belts?
• Loose or frayed?
• How is the condition of the exhaust?
• Is it in a state of utter rustification or is it minor? – Most exhaust pipes show some signs of rust which is pretty normal.
• The front suspension…does it show rust around the mountings?

The presence of several minor problems that have been ignored can be an important indication of a larger pattern of neglect. For example, a “chopping” pattern on the front tires’ treads [due to failure to have them balanced and rotated in a timely manner] might be a sign of overall laziness and neglect by the owner in regards to maintenance on the vehicle. That is, maybe that have failed to have the oil changed regularly. If an automatic, when is the last time the transmission was serviced? What about replacement of the fuel filter? The timing belt?

Interior:

You where probably expecting information on seats, etc but it’s better to check the odometer first, if the odometer shows low mileage and the interior shows signs of excessive usage described later on, then the car may have a less long life expectancy then you might have thought it had.

How to detect odometer fraud?

Well, at least to have a good chance of detecting odometer fraud, because there are times it’s just not detectable.
Odometer fraud also known as clocking cars is a way to reduce the mileage shown on the odometer, with fewer miles on the meter prices go up and the seller makes more profit.
Once again CarFax.com is a great tool in your used car buying arsenal as you can obtain previous odometer records when present, so get a CarFax report, to not only check for previous accidents, flood damage but also the odometer records.
If there are discrepancies then you have to be very alert for not buying a worn down car, you never know how far back the odometer has been adjusted.

Have you checked out other cars of the same models previously?
Do these cars of the same make and model have fewer signs of wear and tear and higher mileage on the odometer? – then the odometer of the car you’re looking at right now, with more signs of wear and a lower odometer reading may have been rolled back.

• Do you see any signs of tamper with the cover in front of the meter? Scratches?
• Do the digits line up correctly? Are they crooked or straight?
• Excessive wear on the pedal rubbers, steering wheel and gear shift?
• Sagging seats or worn driver’s seat cover – worn carpets on the driver’s side?

Proceeding further with checking the interior of the car:

Check for moisture under the floor mats, if there is a lot of moisture or if it is wet then there are leaks somewhere, this can be very problematic, so be sure to check this out as this could cause rust and rot under the carpets. Condensation on the inside of the windows is also an indication of moisture build up in the car.

• Do the seats adjust easily?
• Do the seat heaters work?
• Is the dash in good condition?
• Does the seatbelts work? Give them a quick pull and check if they lock.

Electrical:

• How does the wiring look under the dash?
• Does it look good or do you see a lot of do-it-yourself wiring hacks?
• Does the heater, defroster, air conditioning and fans work?
• Do the wind shield wipers and washers work?
• Do the headlights work?
• Do the signal lights work?
• Do the brake lights work?
• All the light cases in good condition?

Test Driving The Car

Before you take any car for a test drive, think about insurance.

Verify that should you get in an accident whilst test driving the car that you’re covered.

Getting Started:

Switch the ignition on, but don’t yet start the engine.

Indication/warning lights should light up. If nothing is lighting up then obviously there must be a fault somewhere in the wiring or components. The oil and coolant level lights should light up after a few seconds. The hand brake light should switch off when the brake is released.

Potential ABS or airbags lights will have their own testing sequence. Look it up in the vehicle’s manual to see what this should be. If any lights stay on, especially those for brakes or coolant level, ask the seller for more information why this occurs.

Pedals:

Push down on the clutch and the brake pedal. Both pedals shouldn’t feel loose or spongy.

Push the brake pedal down hard. If you notice the brake pedal slowly dropping down to the floor it could mean there is a serious hydraulic problem. And that is not only a costly problem but you would be putting yourself in danger as well when driving the car.

Still with the engine off, pump the brake pedal a couple of times to use up the vacuum in the servo reservoir. When you have your foot still on the pedal proceed to start the engine – you should now feel the pedal push down to the floor under your foot.

With the engine still running, move the gear shift with the clutch in. It should move smoothly for you, and check if the stick vibrates – this is a sign of wear.

Other Items:

• Do you see the Temp warning light go out?
• Do you see the Oil warning light go out?
• Do you see the Charge warning light go out?
• Are all instruments working?
• Does the car start easily when cold?
• Does the car run smoothly when cold?
• Do you hear any strange noises when the engine is running cold?
• Does the clutch make strange noises when pushing down on it a few times?
• Turn the ignition off. Any restart problems?
• Move the car slowly forward, do you see any leakage on the ground?
• Is the fuel indicator in working order?

The Test Drive

Test the brakes first when starting to drive for obvious reasons.
Do you hear any unusual engine noises or experience strange vibrations when driving? With the windows down, drive the car along side of a wall type structure or curb that can reflect the sounds of the car. Do you hear anything that concerns you?

• Clanging or clunking sounds when starting and stopping the car could mean problems with exhaust, engine mountings, suspension, transmission or the drive shaft.
• Knocking or tapping sounds could be from a failing rod bearing, piston or piston pin.
• Whining or grinding sounds can mean worn bearings or gears which are expensive to repair.
• Squealing sounds when you use the brake may mean new brake pads or linings are needed. Scrubbings sounds are worse because it indicates that the “screeching” parts could be worn beyond repair.
• The engine should pull up smoothly when you accelerate the gas, without any stalls or power losses. Releasing your foot off the accelerator should also power down smoothly.
• Stop the car, and test the reverse, have a friend check if the reverse lights are working, or, use the reflection of a window or other object.
• Do you experience any problems with the transmission? Everything working smoothly?
• Does the hand brake work? Put it on handbrake and test it against the engine.
• Do the brakes work properly when braking on various speeds. Does the car stop straight; or does it pull to one side?
• Does the car accelerate smoothly from a dead stop?
• Make two sharp full circle turns, clock wise and counter clock wise, and find out if you hear any strange noises?
• When you hear rhythmic clunks from the front of the vehicle when driving, this may indicate that the drive shaft joints are badly worn and need to be replaced.
• Drive the car up a hill, does it have any problems taking on a hill?
• Check the handbrake. Is it strong enough to hold the vehicle on a hill?
•Driving the car up a hill is a good time to watch for blue smoke from burning oil coming out of the exhaust. When you go go down the hill have your foot off the accelerator, at the moment you reach the bottom of the hill, push down on the
accelerator again.

• If the engine is in poor condition and is old and worn it may take a while to get you up to speed and you may see a big puff of smoke coming out of the exhaust.
• How is the suspension of the car? Does it take bumps on smoothly, or is it rigid and are you bouncing all over the place?
• Park the car and have the engine running idle and check if it doesn’t overheat?
• Exhaust showing excessive smoke production? Watch the color of the smoke:
• Blue smoke means the engine is worn and is burning oil.
• Black smoke indicates excessive fuel consumption due to poor tuning.
• Constant white smoke – actually steam: Engine coolant or anti-freeze is being processed in the combustion chambers of the engine. Check the radiator fluid level (after properly alleviating any pressure in the cooling system, since burns from
engine coolant can cause severe injury). However, do not confuse this with the normal vapor that is present in the exhaust on cold days, or that is seen when first starting a car on a cool one.

Any odors?

The smell of burning oil can mean a worn-out engine.
Gasoline? If you can smell petrol fumes while you are driving, you may have a fuel leak.
Exhaust fumes? This can be very dangerous, as carbon monoxide leaks can poison you and your passengers and you could pass out behind the wheel or have long term health implications.

When done test driving the car, park the car, but leave the engine running and have another look under the hood.

This is a ideal time to give the engine another inspection:

• Oil or water leaks?
• Is the car leaking fluids from underneath the car?
• Does the car start easily again when you switch it off?
• Does the car overheat when running idle?

Conclusion

Hopefully with the above mentioned points you have a better understanding what to watch out for when you go out to buy a used car, and it will prevent that you will be buying a complete nightmare.
Good luck with your new ride!

P.S. – If you have any points you would like to see added or you don’t agree with something that is mentioned in this article – please leave a comment below or get in touch with us.

We would really appreciate your feedback!

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